Also Applies to Ceilings and Barn Doors
RECLAIMED WOOD WALL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
Make sure that the surface you will be installing on is relatively flat and structurally sound. The surface must also be clean, dry, and dust-free. Painting the wall or ceiling a color similar to your wood is an optional step. It is recommended that you remove your panels from the box and let the wood acclimatize to the room for 2 to 5 days, while strapped, before you install (this allows the wood to get accustomed to the humidity and temperature of the room where it will be installed), or slightly longer if you live in an area with high humidity.
Once your boards are acclimatized remove the straps. Arrange the boards on the floor as you would like them to be installed on your wall or ceiling, make sure to pay attention to how you would like color and grain variations to be presented.
Acclimate Boards for 2 to 5 Days Based on Your Climate – Leave Straps on Boards!
Gloves are recommended to avoid splinters while handling the boards. Safety goggles and a dusk mask should be used when trimming the wood boards. Ear plugs are to be used if you are using a nail gun or an electric saw.
Construction adhesive (Liquid Nails or similar), caulk gun, hammer, 2” finish nails, saw, pencil, tape measure, saw, and level. Optional equipment: painting supplies (for background color if desired), sharpie, air nail gun, compressor, jig saw or Dremel, power saw or miter saw.
Now grab a pencil or a sharpie and a level to make a reference line. It is easiest to start at eye or shoulder level. Start in the middle of the wall and draw a straight and level line across the entire surface. Due to the nature of reclaimed wood there may be small gaps that are visible between the panels once installed. To minimize the appearance of these gaps you can paint the installation surface (the wall or ceiling you are mounting to) a dark color or use a permanent pen to draw lines between the rows of panels. You can also use a permanent pen (if you didn’t paint your wall or ceiling) to fill in spaces that are the result knotholes.
Now apply construction adhesive to the back of a 3’ or 4’ board (keep the adhesive away from the edges of the board so the adhesive won’t ooze past the edges of the board once applied to the wall, in most cases a continuous “S” pattern or squiggle line works best).
Next, place the board below and flush to the reference line. While holding the board in place put nails in the 4 corners of the board approximately ½” (one half inch) from the board edges using a hammer.
Repeat this with another board, going across the room following the reference line. When this row is complete begin your next row. Be sure to stager your boards so the ends of the boards don’t line up and create seams. A good rule of thumb is to make sure that the edges of the boards are at least 8” apart from row to row.
Repeat this process until you have completed a row of two boards deep. When you approach the end of the wall you will need to measure the distance from the last board to the end of the wall. Then mark the measured distance from the wall on to a board and trim it to size so it can be used to complete the row and be flush with the edge of the wall. Repeat this until you are close to the ceiling and the floor.
You may need to trim the height of some boards to make sure that they are flush to the floor and ceiling. There is a possibility of some expansion of the boards after installation, so leave a small gap between 1/16” and 1/8” between the boards and the floor/ceiling.